Luverne is a charming little town near my grandfather’s childhood stomping grounds. He was born in Slocumb and graduated from Slocumb High at 19. It took him that long because he only attended school in the fall during football season. The coach would round him up every summer to play ball then he’d drop out and work until football season came back around. When your father’s a minister in the rural south everyone had to pitch in.

PaPa was mischievous and no doubt roamed the streets of Luverne in the ‘30s, finding trouble even if he wasn’t looking for it. We know a fair amount about his family’s history and have been to that area many times. Those roads hold a special place in my heart as I know that’s where much of our character was formed. Going back is a bit of a homecoming, even though all of the immediate family is gone. But I’ll never pass through there without thinking of PaPa and what that area was like during his day.

On the edge of town is Bush’s Bar-B-Que, no relation to the baked beans brand. I’ve never given it much attention, usually hurrying past after a Sunday homecoming visit to Brantley. On this instance, Chase turned a work trip into a road trip, altering our route home to include a lunch stop at Bush’s. There were no expectations, just the hope that our wanderings down the back roads of L.A. would also yield a worthwhile barbecue adventure.

The pulled pork reminded me of a good pork roast. It was moist and smoky and I ate most of it without sauce. That’s a credit to the meat, not a knock on the sauce. It was good but ranked above the median in terms of sweetness. It’s a thick tomato base with light seasoning and no spice. Whether you use sauce or not, an order or pulled pork sets you up for a delicious lunch.

Our favorite side was the cole slaw. It’s chunky cut cabbage in a creamy sauce with relish and bits of carrots. The peppery seasoning made it flavorful and it’s served cold for a refreshing, light contrast to the rest of the fattiness on the plate. I wouldn’t mind having a double order my next visit. Our hostess said it was the best side on the menu and she didn’t lie.

I also give a thumbs up to the greens, which were soft but had good flavor and were well seasoned. If you’re on the fence about the baked beans, go with something else. I just found them lacking. The also have baked pinto beans, mac n cheese, and sweet potato fries, among other favorites. All were tempting and will make it to my next plate.

The reality of Bush’s style and substance was topped only by the trip I took through my imagination. I’ll never know the Luverne of PaPa’s youth, but today’s version is worth a look. Slow down and take in the old storefronts, the historic country houses, and the flavor of Luverne’s own Bush’s Bar-B-Que.